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Grilling over a charcoal fire is beyond the scope of this cookbook. However, I cannot resist passing on a few simple sauces. Moreover, some barbecue sauces (but not all) work admirably as a glaze for meats such as chicken and pork. Recipes for barbecue sauces or glazes are confusing. A host of ingredients appear, different for each recipe, yet the sauces taste generally similar. A recipe typically designates a specific meat. If a glaze is listed for duck, can it also be used for pork or chicken? We are left to guess. It helps to recognize that most barbecue sauces fall into two
categories: tomato-based or soy-based. To either base is added a plain oil and a sweetener, honey or sugar. These three components - base, oil, and sweetener - form the foundation for the sauce or glaze. To the basic triumvirate various flavorings are added. Vinegar is pervasive. Often a pungent seasoning, such as garlic or cayenne pepper, is added. Sometimes a dried herb is used, perhaps rosemary or thyme. The following three recipes conform to this model. SOY-BASED BARBECUE SAUCES Chinese Traditional Barbecue Glaze SIMPLE This is a simple glaze. Soy, oil, and sugar form the base,
lightly flavored with Sherry and paprika. Makes scant 1/4 cup, enough for 1 chicken, split for barbecue, or roasted whole in the oven Light soy sauce, 2 tablespoons Sherry, 1/2 tablespoon Mix all ingredients in a bowl. Variation General Purpose Barbecue Sauce I This is a sauce that Julia Child developed for spare ribs (The Way to Cook). It makes sense as a general purpose sauce for chicken and pork. I tried it as a glaze on chicken thighs, and it works well. The recipe is roughly similar to the recipe preceding. The base remains soy sauce, but much reduced in quantity. Honey replaces sugar. Vinegar is added. Pungency is provided by cayenne pepper. Flavorings are paprika and thyme. Serves 3, 1/3 cup Light soy sauce, 2 tablespoons Vinegar, 1/2 tablespoon Mix all ingredients in a bowl. TOMATO-BASED BARBECUE SAUCES General Purpose Barbecue Sauce II This is an simple, old-fashioned American sauce, as described in Irma Rombauer's original Joy of Cooking. It's usefulness is limited, and it is offered mainly for comparative purposes. This can serve as a barbecue sauce for the grill, where some people have said that the sauce is symbolic anyway. It doesn't work as a glaze for roasting. Compared to the above, catsup is used instead of soy and oil. Vinegar is increased. Salt and pepper suffice for seasonings. I am not sure that this sauce needs simmering. Serves 3 1/3 cup Catsup, 3 ounces, 1/3 cup Vinegar, 2 tablespoons Mix all ingredients in a pan. Simmer 15 minutes, stirring frequently Variation Old-Fashioned Barbecue Sauce This is another Rombauer recipe, when she was in a more serious mood. If you think that there have been significant advances in barbecue sauces since Irma Rombauers time, check out the ingredients in current bottled sauces. You will find that the following is the mother of many current supermarket products. Makes 1/2 cup Onion, chopped, 1 ounce Catsup, 1/3 cup Sugar, 2 teaspoons Optional: Heat oil in sauté pan. Cook onions until tender and
transparent, about 5 minutes. Variations |
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