Sometimes I have encountered recipes for "cod or any firm-fleshed fish." This recognizes a fact of fish life, that a large middle group of species exists that does not possess great individuality.

Note a difference to the extremes bracketing the group. The delicate sole and flounder on the one hand and swordfish, halibut, and salmon on the other, do have marked individual character.

On the West Coast "red snapper" seems to be another name for COAFF, being marketed as any kind of rockfish, of varying quality. Here red snapper is the ultimate middle fish, a West Coast Anyfish. (This is not the red snapper of the Gulf Coast, which Beard and Spears praise.)

Pan-steaming with vegetables is a simple, healthy, and tasty way to prepare COAFF.

This is the utmost in simplicity, everything cooked in one pan on the stove. Onions, mushrooms, and red bell pepper are briefly braised. Fish fillets are added and braised. Fillets are removed to plates and the vegetables spooned on top.

Serves 4

Chop onions, slice mushrooms, and cut red pepper in ¼ inch dice.

Place these in the pan and stir in olive oil. Cover bottom of pan well with white wine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cover pan and bring rapidly to simmer. Boil gently 3 minutes.

(May be done ahead of time to this point.)

Place fish fillets on top of the vegetables. Cover, and cook until fish is done, 130 degrees F. on the instant-read dial thermometer. Fish will flake with a fork and taste done. Time depends on thickness of fillets, perhaps 6 to 8 minutes for ¾ inch thick.

To serve